When I first stayed at Cocomo, back in '97 while conducting research for the first edition of Lonely Planet Panama (I wrote the second edition, too, if you must know), I was impressed with the thoughtfulness its Canadian owners put into it, from orthopedic mattresses for finicky backs, to doubling-up the roofing material to temper the sound of rain, to having bed frames made a tad higher than usual for knees that aren’t what they once were.

Back then, Cocomo's one flaw, in my opinion, was the complimentary breakfast. It was too Continental, too quaint.

Breakfast at Cocomo continues to be included in the price, but now it consists of tropical fruit, eggs prepared as you like, cold cereal, toast, and as much coffee/tea as you desire, all served seaside on a cozy, hammock-strung veranda. Cocomo’s current owner, a friendly American named Douglas Rusher, clearly doesn’t go for the Continental breakfast anymore than I do.

A handsome deck over the water for sunbathing, free use of kayaks, and ice from a freezer. Laundry service is available (a welcome, uncommon service in these parts).

Two of the B & B’s four guestrooms are built over water, and two are over land (these tend to be quieter). Each room has air-con, ceiling fan, and hot and cold water.

Rates are $70 per night (plus 10% hotel tax).Location

Avenida Norte (a.k.a Avenida I) at Calle 6

Bocas Town, Isla Colón

Bocas del Toro

Panama